Driving through the urban sprawl that is the Inland Empire does not inspire confidence that the historic Mission Inn will be architecturally remarkable - which makes the revelation of the Riverside, California landmark nothing short of jaw-dropping. At the risk of sounding like a douche bag, entering the grounds of the hotel from Mission Inn Avenue is a bit like walking through a cheap ugly wardrobe into Narnia (if the Narnia sentence stays in the final version of this story please know my Ambien is not working). Oil paintings of the presidents who've stayed there line the lobby. And a stunning chapel boasts radiant floor to ceiling Tiffany stained glass windows. The complex, rambling edifice takes you from Spain to China in one city block. All without a body scan.